Thursday, September 29, 2011

Traveler Dress Sew Along Day 3!

Good Morning! Sleeves, attaching skirts and button plackets, OH My! After today it will really  start look like a dress and be almost done! Yippy!

 I made view C so my sleeves have gathers in them. You are going to make the garters on the top of the sleeve and the bottom of the sleeve between your markings that you transferred from hte pattern. To make a gathers stitch I set my machine to the longest stitch, which is a 5, and to the set the tension to the 8. My machine will gather my fabric for but be sure to leave long tails of thread to adjust the gathers as needed.
 Next take the sleeve on pin the two short ends together with right sides, as to make a circle, together and stitch.
 Now for the sleeve cuffs, we need to add interfacing to both of them. Cut the interfacing the same size as the sleeve cuff and iron on.
 pin the two short ends together with right sides facing and stitch together. Next press up one side of the sleeve cuff. Repeat with second cuff.
 Oh this is my favorite part of making the sleeve! Take the sleeve cuff and slip it over the bottom of the sleeve with right sides together, matching up the raw sides.
 First I pin the none gathered spot then I work on my gathers so they are nice and even. I think I tend to over pin here but want the gathers to stay put while I am sewing them in place. Stitch in place. Now turn the sleeve right side out and fold the sleeve cuff up toward the sleeve so that the seam of the sleeve/cuff are to the inside of fold. (sorry no pic here) This will be your already folded pressed edge here going up. Pin in place and stitch. Done!
 Now to attach our sleeve to our bodice I did the same as the cuff of the sleeve. I start at the bottom of the sleeve, matching up the side seams and pin the none gathers areas first then work my gathers so they are nice and even across. Stitch in place. Now here I finished my seams with my seger but you can sew a same zig zag with you sewing machine to finish off the edged.
 Tah Tada! a pretty sleeve!
 Now on to attaching the skirt. If you made view A or B this part you will not need to do. First sew together the three skirt pieces and finish the seams. Run a gathering stitch across the top between markings. Pin the bodice, matching up side seams and adjusting gathers. Stitch together then finish the seam.

 Now the hem the dress. I did make my hem longer than this but this is just to show you how to make the hem. First press up an inch. (I know that's knot what I am showing here. ;)) then...
 Fold hte raw edge under the to the fold and press again. Stitch as close to the inside of the fold as you can.
 This is where we are at now, looking better!
 Onto the part of the day, the button plackets! Take the interfacing's and iron them onto the top and bottom plackets. The sew the top and bottom plackets together. You will have four of these top and bottom pieces when sewn together.
 Taek one and pin it to the side of the dress matching up the seams on the bodice and the button placket, with raw edges together. stitch. Repeat with other side.
 Take  seam and press towards the button placket on both sides.
 Now take the last two button plackets and press the one side in.
 Take the button placket you just pressed and pin it with right sides together, matching up seams of top color and bottom color. Stitch.
 Here is what the bottom of the stitched placket looks like, you are going stitch across the bottom of the placket too. Be careful as not to sew the bottom of the dress hem into this but be as close to it as you can. Trim and press for a lovely button placket! Repeat with other side.
 Almost done now!! After pressing the button placket to the inside, pin in place. I pinned my working on the inside but left my pins sticking out a bit so I could pull them out while working from the top of my dress. Be sure to match up the stitch line and the folded edge of the placket while pinning in place. This way when you are stitching on the top side you will be sure and sew the placket in place and not "miss" it in spots.
 When stitching around the placket, stitch as close to the edge as you can. This will make your finished dress look more proffesional. Now drum roll.....
 Here is what we got! This dress is almost done now, all that is left is to add the collar and button holes tomorrow. Until then, Happy Sewing!!

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